Cleaning the keg and tap lines

Not fun but you got to do it, cleaning the tap lines. #homebrew #homebrewing. I broke down the beer tap and soaked it in PBW. Then I cleaned all the lines with line cleaner and reassemble. #home #brewing

Just about any good home brewer will tell you that one of the first rules of home brewing beer and making good home brewed beer is cleanliness. Unfortunately humans are not the only beer lovers on the planet.  Beer is loved by everything from insects to bacteria and your homebrewing and keg systems are highly susceptible to bacterial growth. Beer lines, keg fittings and taps are often times places where the like to hang out and they should be cleaned regularly.  Thankfully there are several products out there to help you keep your systems sanitary and your beer tasting good!

After building my Kegerator setup which you can view here, I knew that I would need to care for it and clean my taps so I purchased the line cleaning kit and some liquid beer line cleaner which is shown above.  The kit was great, it came with instructions and everything that I needed in order to do the job. The beer keg line cleaning kit came with a 1 quart hand pump that pushes Beer Line Cleaner through the draft beer system. The faucet gets removed and cleaned with the included faucet wrench and brush.  The process is relatively quick and easy and takes about 20 minutes to clean a couple beer taps out.

If you are interest in purchasing a draft beer line cleaning kit you can find it here:

Keg line cleaning kit

Keg Line Cleaning Solution

Here are the detailed instructions on how to clean your keg beer lines, beer taps and beer faucets:

1) Remove the tap from the keg. Use a beer faucet wrench to remove the faucet (the piece that the beer actually flows though to your glass) from the draft beer shank. The beer faucet collar should have a few holes in it, insert the wrench end into a hole and spin the collar clockwise to remove.

2) Next, disassemble the faucet to the point that the shaft inside can slide out. Place these parts in a bowl with 2 cups of warm water and ¼ teaspoon of Beer Line Cleaner. Put one cap full of beer line cleaner into the beer line pump jar and fill with warm water. Attach the lid pump unit back on the jar. Get a bucket to collect the fluid running from the tap. Insert the cleaning brush small end into the bottom of the tap to allow the flow to go through if needed.

3) Pump the cleaning solution though line and tap allowing the solution to sit in the lines for 10–15 minutes, then pump through. Follow this with 1–2 jars of water to rinse. Remove the brush from the tap.

4) Use the brush and a towel to clean the draft beer faucet and then rinse with clean water. Reassemble the faucet, hand tighten parts, leave loose enough so that they move freely. Attach the faucet back onto the shank again, using the wrench, do not over tighten, just tighten enough so that it does not leak any precious beer!

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Final Cleaning of the Brewrig

 

Doing the final cleaning of the home brewing system.  After cleaning out all of the kettles and the chiller, I fill a bucket and throw in a scoop of PBW. I enable the RIMS system and have it circulate the water and PBW in the bucket.  I bring the water temp up to about 1ooF happens pretty quickly since it is only about 3 gallons of water.  I let it circulate for about 5 minutes once I have hit my desired temperature and let the PBW do its magic.  After that I break down the homebrewing RIMS system scrub everything, reassemble and flush with clean water.

Yeast Starter

St Patrick please bless this beer! Making a Yeast Starter for my Hazy IPA tomorrow. I am using the wyeast London ale III 1318 yeast for this batch. I will let the starter go for about 24 hours and then pitch tomorrow.

 

Below is another animation of the stir plate about 10 hours after creating the yeast starter.  If you are seeing foam at the top of your starter at this point that is a great sign.  I usually turn off the plate for about 30 minutes just to check for signs of life.  If you are seeing bubbles and foam it means your yeast is alive, active and healthy.  If after 10 hours on a stir plate, at a reasonable temperature (62F-75F for an ale) and you are not seeing any bubbles, I would consider getting new yeast as it is either dead or not to the point it needs to be to ferment.  Keep in mind that yeast has a shelf life, and that it is a living organism that requires certain conditions to stay alive.  Living in Southern California, I am very cautious about ordering yeast online because there have been about 5 separate occasions where my yeast was destroyed in transit because of heat.  If you ever receive a bloated yeast packet, always do a starter just to insure that it is still viable before pitching.  If I am going to order yeast online, I try to make sure that the regional weather will be moderate. One other thing, while on the stir plate, I keep my flask wrapped in a towel during the daytime to help prevent in oxidization impact on the yeast from the sun light.

 

Homebrewing Yeast Starter and Magnetic Stir Plate

Homebrewing Yeast Starter and Magnetic Stir Plate

 

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American IPA
This India Pale Ale features the clean bitterness of Magnum hops and healthy dose of the flavors and aromas of Cascade: arguably the hop behind the modern craft beer movement.

Color/Body: Amber/Medium
Bitterness: Very High
Estimated Alcohol: 6%

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Getting ready for the next batch of homebrew.

Getting ready for the next batch of Homebrew. Cleaned up the Brewing rig and made a small modification to the controller changing out one of the buttons and heading in to the back to ensure that the electronics do not get too hot.

Next step is brewing up a batch. I’m going to try my first attempt at a Vermont Style cloudy IPA. I will be sure to post the recipe if it works out.

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